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Press the seam flat, and then press the side seam open, leaving the pocket inside of the dress. Thank you for this great tutorial, exactly what I was looking for to make a coat!! Neat! Funny, in Italy this is called English seam :D Nice ible. This is pretty simple. This is pretty simple. Stitch the side seam and pocket edge again, ¼” from the edge, enclosing the raw edge of the seam inside. on Introduction. Be sure to enclose the raw edge inside of the new seam. Thank you! I loved the fabric and wondered what you used. A nice clean finish inside and out, and handy pockets to boot! Like if I were making a skirt?? It helps if you cut a little “shelf” at the bottom of the pocket’s opening, like this one. This “understitching” will help secure the pocket inside the dress, so it doesn’t come peeking out. I wanted a chic and clean finish for the inside seams, so I decided to go old-school and make French seams. I love to sew on vaca—how about you? I've learn to do this seam some years ago, the funny thing is that in Italy is called "cucitura inglese", english seam. In step #3, you don't finger press the seam you just sewed opened up down the center ( with one side of the fabric pressed to the right side and the other side of the seam's fabric pressed to the left side). Make sure the seam we just sewed is right at the edge of the fabric. Reply I use them on any clothes I sew! Last summer I spent some time on an island off of Cape Cod, sewing in the morning and beaching in the afternoon. Loved Mrs. Eilber So a French seam is pretty much a must in that situation. (Note: In the pattern I’m using, the seam allowances are designed to be 3/8” wide. Do it wrong side up at first, and press the seam allowance to one side. follow me on instagram @jessyratfink to see what i'm working on! Now how do I complete the other side??? Ok I totally get how to do the French seam on one side. Otherwise, if you just hit the allowances with pinking shears and don't force the allowance any particular way, if both allowances (outer fabric and garment) decide to go the same way, you get an unsightly bunch inside lining and outer fabric that can be impossible to get rid of. :D, 6 years ago And the pattern weights are free! (The understitching will be hidden inside of the pocket.) If you have any questions, feel free to ask in the comments below! Press the seam flat and clip the seam allowance at the top and bottom of the pocket. Repeat on the other side. Vicki Tilton (IAA65-69). Consider the stitch size setting and thread tension you will need for sewing your... 2. :D  Take your two pieces of fabric and set them one of top of the other, wrong sides facing. Trim the seam allowance down by several millimeters as dictated by your sewing pattern. (After you lug them home from the beach…), I always take my trusty BERNINA 215 with me when I travel. Starting at the bottom, you’re going to sew a 1/8” seam up the side seam, go around the pocket edge, and then up the rest of the side seam to the top. The classic example is the lined bodice of a dress, where the top seam seals the top and sewing the bodice to the skirt seals the bottom. 2. I was working on a summery dress that has hidden pockets on the side seams. Now, it can be a little tricky to maneuver a French seam around a pocket, but by using this tried-and-true vintage method, it works just fine. Pin the side seam of the dress and outside edge of the pocket again. Trim the spot between the dress and the bottom of the pocket as closely as you can without cutting the stitching. Turn the dress and the pocket inside out, so they’re right sides together. And often the lighter weight the fabric on the outside, the worse it looks. About: I work at instructables by day, and turn into a stitch witch by night. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. (It helps if you put your hand inside of the pocket and push it out all along the seamline before you press.) This is the easiest and quickest way I've found to do them - sewing 1/8 and then 1/4 inch seam allowances keeps you from having to spend time cutting extra fabric off, and also keeps you from having to account for a really large seam allowance. Rulerwork for Beginners Series, Part 5: Diamonds. Sew an 1/8 inch from the right edge. Sewing the First Seam 1. Pin the front pocket piece to the front side seam of the dress, WRONG sides together, at the place indicated in the pattern. You finger press BOTH sides of the seam's fabric to the left. The B 215 is a great vacation machine because it’s a compact size for transport, and it still has that excellent BERNINA stitch quality and powerful feed. Is that correct? 7 years ago With right sides together, sew your seam and press open. Awesome clear instructions! Note: this seam will not meet the pocket seam that you sewed earlier. Oh I love French seams! :D. Take your two pieces of fabric and set them one of top of the other, wrong sides facing. PS: had your mother for English. Step 2: First Line of Sewing. You'll need two strips of fabric, a sewing machine and an iron. But read the next step before you proceed, because it’s a little tricky. Stitch the pocket side seam again, ¼” from the edge this time. Step 1: Add a little fabric to each pattern piece (unless it already factors in enough fabric for French … Turn the pocket back toward the garment, now RIGHT sides together, and press. :). On the opposite side of the dress, use the same method to attach the other pocket pieces. Unfold the fabric, and lay it flat in the table. On custom made dresses made by designers, you would find this finish inside because they know that in dressmaking inside matters as well as the outside. 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